Cosmeceuticals : Boon for human dermal care

  • Lubna Azmi Pharmacognosy and Ethnopharmacology Division, CSIR-National Botanical Research Institute, Lucknow-226 001, Uttar Pradesh
  • Ila Shukla Pharmacognosy and Ethnopharmacology Division, CSIR-National Botanical Research Institute, Lucknow-226 001, Uttar Pradesh
  • Padam Kant Department of Chemistry, Lucknow University, Lucknow
  • Ch. V. Rao Pharmacognosy and Ethnopharmacology Division, CSIR-National Botanical Research Institute, Lucknow-226 001, Uttar Pradesh


The use of cosmeceuticals has radically risen in recent years. This considerably increases the armamentarium of the clinician in humanizing the treatment of skin, hair, and other circumstances. They are at the point in time where wellness meets beauty and growing use by consumers is analytic of their popularity. This chapter focuses on skin, hair, and other cosmeceuticals and their regulatory aspects.


Download data is not yet available.


Joshi H. Potentials of traditional medicinal chemistry in cosmetology industry; prospectives and perspectives. Anaplastology 2012; 1: 3.

Sahu AN, Jha S, Dubey SD. Formulation & Evaluation of curcuminoid based herbal face cream. Indo-Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 2011; 1: 77-84.

Pandey S, Meshya N, Viral D. Herbs play an important role in the field of cosmetics. International Journal of Pharm Tech Research 2010; 2: 632-639.

Gediya SK, Mistry RB, Patel UK, Blessy M, Jain HN (2011) Herbal plants : used as cosmetics. J Nat Prod Plant Resour 1: 24-32.

Saha R. Cosmeceuticals and Herbal drugs: practical uses. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Research and Sciences 2012; 3: 59-65.

Sharma HD, Paramesh R. Trends in aging and skin care: Ayurvedic concepts. Journal of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine 2010; 1 (7): 110-113.

Lappe, Marc (1996). The Body's Edge, Henry Holt & Co., New York.

Anctzak, Gina & Stephen (2001). Cosmetics Unmasked, Harper Collin, London.

Erickson, Kim (2002). Drop Dead Gorgeous, Contemporary Books, USA.

Purvis, Debbie (1989). The Business of Beauty, Wall & Thompson, Toronto.

Awake! Watchtower Bible and Tract Society of New York, Canada, February 8 2004.

Paus R. A neuroendocrinological perspective on human hair follicle pigmentation. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2011; 24: 89–106.

Paus R, Botchkarev VA, Botchkareva NV, et al. The skin POMC system (SPS). Leads and lessons from the hair follicle. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 1995; 885: 350–363.

Botchkarev VA. Stress and the hair follicle: exploring the connections. Am J Pathol 2003; 162: 709–712.

Kono M, Nagata H, Umemura S, et al. In situ expression of corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH) and proopiomelanocortin (POMC) genes in human skin. FASEB J 2001; 15: 2297–2299.

Slominski A, Zbytek B, Zmijewski M, et al. Corticotropin releasing hormone and the skin. Front Biosci 2006; 11: 2230–2248.

Katsarou-Katsari A, Singh LK, Theoharides TC. Alopecia areata and affected skin CRH receptor upregulation induced by acute emotional stress. Dermatology 2001; 203: 157–161.

Mulhern R, Fieldman G, Hussey T, Leveque JL & Pineau P. Do cosmetics enhance female caucasian facial attractiveness? Int J Cosmet Sci 2003; 25: 199–205.

Cotterill JA. Social, psychological and psychiatric aspects of cosmetic use. In: Cosmetic Dermatology (Baran R & Maibach HI, editors), Martin Dunitz: London; 1994; pp. 557– 560.

Mintel. The eyes have it! Eye makeup sales bolster color cosmetics growth, reports Mintel. Mintel:Chicago USA, 2010 accessed 27/10/10.

Hardy AD, Walton RI, Myers KA & Vaishnav R. Availability and chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics (“kohls”) used in the United Arab Emirates of Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al-Quwain, Ras Al-Khaimah, and Fujairah. J Cosmet Sci 2006; 57: 107–125.

Hidayat AA, Weatherhead RG, al-Rajhi A & Johnson FB. Conjunctival and lacrimal sac pigmentation by kohl (eyeliner). Br J Ophthalmol. 1997; 81: 418.

El Safoury OS, El Fatah DS & Ibrahim M. Treatment of periocular hyperpigmentation due to lead of kohl (surma) by penicillamine: a single group non-randomized clinical trial. Indian J Dermatol 2009; 54: 361–363.

Al-Ashban RM, Aslam M & Shah AH. Kohl (surma): a toxic traditional eye cosmetic study in Saudi Arabia. Public Health 2001; 118: 292–298.

Platia EV, Michels RG & Green WR. Eye-cosmetic-induced conjunctival pigmentation. Ann Ophthalmol 1978; 10: 501–504.

Donaldson DD. Mascara pigmentation of the conjunctiva. Arch Ophthalmol. 1969; 81: 124–125.

Sugar HS & Kobernick S. Subconjunctival pigmentation; associated with the use of eye cosmetics containing carbonblack. Am J Ophthalmol. 1966; 62: 146–149.

Clifford L, Jeffrey M & Maclean H. Lacrimal sac pigmentation due to mascara. Eye (Lond) 2011; 25: 397–398. 13.

Ciolino JB, Mills DM & Meyer DR. Ocular manifestations of long-term mascara use. Ophthal Plast Reconstr Surg. 2009; 25: 339–341.

Adams RM & Maibach HI. A five-year study of cosmetic reactions. J Am Acad Dermatol 1985; 13: 1062–1069

Wang, Quincy C; Johnson, Brett A (May 2001). "Fingertip Injuries". American Family Physician. Retrieved March 2010.

Ravosa, Matthew J.; Dagosto, Marian. Primate origins: adaptations and evolution. Springer. 2007; pp. 389–90.

J. Serup, EEMCO guidance for the assessment of dry skin (xerosis) and ichthyosis: clinical scoring Systems, Skin Research and Technology. 1995; 1:109-114.

G. E. Pierard. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of dry skin (xerosis) and ichthyosis: evaluation by stratum corneum strippings, Skin Research and Technology 1996; 2: 3-11.

E. Berardesca. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods, Skin Research and Technology. 1997; 3: 126-132.

G. E. Pierard. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of skin colour. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venerology 1998; 10: 1-11.

Abreu, C.L.C. Avaliacao da citotoxicidade induzida por produtos cosméticos pelo método de quantificação de proteínas totais em células 3T3. Rio de Janeiro. 2008; 104 p. [Dissertation of Master degree. Fundação Oswaldo Cruz. Instituto Nacional de Controle de Qualidade em Saúde].

Alves, E.N. Red Blood Cell (RBC) – Teste de hemólise: uma alternativa ao teste de draize-irritação ocular na avaliação do poder tóxico de produtos cosméticos no controle de qualidade. Rio de Janeiro, 2003. 89 p. [Dissertation of Master degree. Instituto Nacional de Controle de Qualidade em Saúde. Fundação Oswaldo Cruz].

Agencia nacional DE Guia para avaliação de segurança de produtos cosméticos. Brasília, 2003. Available at: Accessed on: 06 Nov. 2014.

AZEVEDO J.C (2003). Avaliação de metodologia alternativa in vitro ao teste de irritação ocular de Draize. São Paulo, 2003. 139 p. [Dissertation of Master degree. Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo].

Balls, M. The principles of weight of evidence validation of test methods and testing strategies. Altern. Lab. Anim., 2006; 34 (6): 603- 620.

Bednarczuk, V.O (2011).Testes in vitro e in vivo utilizados na triagem toxicológica de produtos naturais. Visão Acadêmica, 2011; 11 (2): 43-50.

Cazarin, K.C. Redução, refinamento e substituição do uso de animais em estudos toxicológicos: uma
Costa, R.N. Estudo da aplicabilidade do ensaio de quantificação de proteínas totais em células SIRC na avaliação do potencial de irritação ocular de xampus e tensoativos. Rio de Janeiro 60 p.2006 [Dissertation of Master degree. Escola Nacional de Saúde Pública Sérgio Arouca, Fundação Oswaldo Cruz].

Cruz, A.S (2003). Teste de citotoxicidade in vitro como alternativa ao teste in vivo de Draize na avaliação de produtos cosméticos. São Paulo, 119 p. [Thesis of PhD degree. Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo].

Akinyele BO, Odiyi AC. Comparative study of the vegetative morphology and the existing taxonomic status of Aloe vera. Journal of plant sciences 2007; 2: 558-563.

Escamilla M, Ferre A, Hidalgo C, Fuentes N, Kaps R, et al.(2012) Revision of European Ecolabel Criteria for Soaps, Shampoos and Hair Conditioners. Joint Research Centre European Commission 1-40.

Suzuki D (2010) The “Dirty Dozen” Ingredients Investigated in the David Suzuki Foundation Survey of Chemicals in Cosmetics. Backgrounder 1-15.

Occupational Exposure to Hazardous Agents. (1978) International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) Monographs on the Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans 17: 1-365.

Kadam VS, Chintale AG, Deshmukh KP, Nalwad DN. Cosmeceuticals an emerging concept: A comprehensive Review. International Journal of Research in Pharmacy and Chemistry 2013; 3: 308-316.

Winter RA (2009) Consumers Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (7thedn.) Three Rivers press United states USA. 15. Ayurvedic & Herbal Products.

Sharma A, Shanker C, Tyagi LK, Singh M, Rao ChV. Herbal Medicine for Market Potential in India : An overview. Academic Journal of Plant Sciences 2008; 1: 26-36.

U.S. Food and Drug Administration, “Parabens”.

Kuchekar BS (2008) Pharmaceutical jurisprudence. 5-17.

Jain NK (2007) A textbook of Forensic pharmacy (7thedn.) MK Jain Vallabh Prakashan, Delhi, India.

Ligade VS, Udupa N (2010) Pharmaceuticals, Cosmeceuticals and Product Patent number Country Herbal cream (Aloe vera, Allium sativum, Gymnema syllvestra, Tridax procumbens, Gum olibanum) US6200570 B1 USA Herbal preparation(Bacopa monnieri, Camellia sinensis, Curcuma longa, Silybum marianum, Withania somnifera) EP1825845 A1 EUROPE Herbal cosmetic compositions containing herbs in mixture of surfactants, essential oils etc. Herbs are selected from camomile, rosemary, mint, sage, lavender, citron, bergamot, juniper, rose, lime (linden), stinging nettle and witch-hazel. DE4133085 A1 GERMANY Dry herbal, cleaning compositions (Bassica malabarica, cocoa nucifera sapindus trifoliatus, hibiscus rosa sinesis, trigonella foenum graeceum) EP0908171 A1 EUROPE Cosmetic or dermatologic composition containing at least one saponine of the ginsenoside type, and its applications particularly to hair care WO1994006402 A2 WORLD INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY ORGANISATION (WIPO) Table 2: Patented Products. Nutraceuticals: An Overview of Regulations (1st edn.) Career Publications.

Dureja H, Kaushik D, Gupta M, Kumar V, Lather V. Cosmeceuticals: An Emerging Concept. Indian Journal of Pharmacology 2005; 37: 155-159.

Hammes C. Cosmeceuticals: The cosmetic-drug borderline. In Drug discovery approaches for developing cosmeceuticals: Advanced Skincare Cosmetic Products. Hori H, Southborough 1997.

Trueb RM. The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Dermatology 2001; 202: 275-82.

Athar M, Syed MN. Taxonomic perspective of plant species yielding vegetable oils used in cosmetics and skin care products. African Journal of Biotechnology 2005; 4: 36-44.

Rabasco AAM, Gonzalez RML. Lipids in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. Grasas y Aceites 2000; 51: 74-96.

Basmatekar G, Jais N, Daud F. Aloevera: A valuable multifunctional cosmetic ingredient. Int J Med Arom Plants 2011; 1: 338-341.

Brown RP, Gerbarg PL, Ramazanov Z. Rhodiola rosea: A phytomedical overview. Herbal Gram. The Journal of the American Botanical Council 2002; 56: 40-52.

Furmanowa M, Skopinska RE, Rogala E, Malgorzata H. Rhodiola rosea in vitro culture: phytochemical analysis and antioxidant action. Acta Societis Botanicorum Poloniae 1998; 67: 69-73.

Strube M, Dragsted OL (1999) Naturally occuring Antitumourigens. Iv. Carotenoids except β-carotene.

Jain A, Dubey S, Gupta A, Kannojia P, Tomar V. Potential of herbs as cosmeceuticals. IJRAP 2010; 1: 71-77.

Ozkur MK, Bozkurt MS, Balabanli B, Aricioglu A, Ilter N, et al. The effects of EGB 761 on lipid peroxide leaves and superoxide dismutase activity in sunburn. Photodermatol photoimmunol photomd 2002; 18: 117-120.

Chaudhary G, Goyal S, Poonia P. Lawsonia inermis Linnaeus: A Phytopharmacological Review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Drug Research 2010; 2: 91-98.

Dixit SN, Srivastava HS, Tripathi RD. Lawsone, The antifungal antibiotic from leaves of lawsonia inermis and some aspects of its mode of action. Indian phytopathol 1980; 31: 131-133.
Abstract : 0 | PDF : 0
How to Cite
Azmi L, Shukla I, Kant P, Rao CV. Cosmeceuticals : Boon for human dermal care. IJPP [Internet]. 29Dec.2018 [cited 23Apr.2019];8(6):45-4. Available from:
Review Article